Canoe with a View : : Canadian Open Canoe forum

OK, so despite a swine of a flu and too much work I finally got that paddle made. I'm not sure this is going to go as a full on how to so think of it more as a blog, I keep getting caught up in the work and forgetting to take important photos!

I've tried to clean the process up into a logical order as I tend to get absorbed in one area of the paddle when I should really be working elsewhere, so some of the photos may show steps not covered yet, I know you're all smart enough to ignore the edges of the pics.

Anyway, short of good wood of my own, I found a plank of cherry in my sisters garage, and stole it! It was 63”x6”x1 ¼”. Ideally the plank should be 6” longer than the final paddle as planks tend to have splits in the ends that need cutting off so a 57" paddle it was. Pretty much any wood will do for a first attempt (even cheap pine from B&Q provided it's reasonably knot free), ash, cherry and walnut are probably the most popular.



I made a plan on graph paper of what I fancied, then added a northwoods grip to it. To be honest 57” with a northwoods grip is a little short for me, but practicality has never been too much of a concern! I don't use templates, so just marked a centre line down the plank and measured and marked up from that line. Templates do speed the process up if you are going to make more than one paddle of the same design, but I'm having too much fun playing with design.







Next came the cutting of the blank. I have a bandsaw, which is handy, but it's doable with a jigsaw, just make sure it has a good cutting depth. I don't have the steadiest hands in the world so I cut to within a couple of mm of the line then shave the rest down using a spokeshave (I also got to play with my brother in laws palm sander, gotta get me one of those!).







The plank had been sitting in a big pile of wood and was a little warped so at this point I left it to hang for a few weeks to allow the bend to relax, or at least that was the plan. The blank remained bent, so I lay the blank on a flat floor at work one day and got a friend to stand on the grip end while I marked a centre line down the side of the paddle measured up from the floor. I then marked the blade with guidelines to thin it down (3/8” in the pic, reduced to 1/4” once I was confident the cherry was strong enough to take it that thin). I also marked some lines to shave down the northwoods section to 1/2" (already started this shaving down in the pic below) and some on the shaft, but more about those later.



Using a power plane (belt sander or normal plane can do this job too) I thinned the blade down, using a plane for the final mm or so, leaving the tip of the blade a little thicker to absorb the battering it will get in use. I also left some thickness in the top third of the blade as I wanted to make a spine to keep a little stiffness in the blade.

I'd marked lines on the shaft 3/10ths of the width of the shaft from the edge (the shaft is wider on the sides as I like an oval grip, that's why it's 3/10th of the width rather than a set measurement), these were used with the spokeshave to make the shaft into an octagon. From there it's surprisingly quick and easy to use a strip of sandpaper like an old shoe shine boy to sand off the corners and make it round. I gave it a quick (unnecessary) sanding at this point, for the photos and to give me a better idea of how symmetrical it was, all those tool marks can distract the eye a little.











I've left the end of the paddle uncut and the top of the grip square at this point as they tend to take a bit of a battering while working other areas.

I then worked with the spokeshave, a knife and some 60 grit sand paper to shape the grip and blend it into the shaft. I have no secret tips for this bit, there's a good bit of end grain and tough angle work here and while other areas of the process seem to fly by this bit take a good bit longer, but it's worth getting right as my left hand will spend a lot of time holding it.



Next comes the blade, cutting the end, thinning it down a little more at the top and shaped the spine, then I shaved the edges at 45 degrees and blended that angle into the centre to create a camber or arch that helps when knifing the blade through the water. Finally blending the blade to the shaft. (I missed a lot of photos at this point as I just got absorbed in the work!)



Then it's down to the finishing process, take out the tool marks with 60 grit sand paper, working down to 120 grit to make it smooth, wetting the wood to swell the grain then giving a final rub with 120 grit.



And it's then time to oil it all. I used boiled linseed, as many coats as it will absorb, wipe on with a cloth, leave for half an hour, then wipe off the excess. Between the final couple of coats I give the paddle a good rub down with wire wool to get a nice smooth finish and slightly glossy look.

And that's where it's at right now, still absorbing oil into the top of the grip, so you'll have to wait a day or two for the final pics!! It has been out for a sneaky test, and although it took 10 minutes of struggling to find how it wanted to work best and adjust to the shorter shaft and longer blade, by the end of the session I was loving it (for all the northwoods grip is a little redundant for me with this shaft length).

Check out sotp or whca for good Paddle making how tos, they're done by more experienced people than me and it's where I found out how to do this stuff, also check out “Canoe Paddles, A complete guide to making your own” by Graham Warren and David Gidmark which is a great read.

As a final word, it does seem like a long process, but there isn't a single stage that's difficult and it really does fly by. Just grab a plank and give it a go.

I hope this makes sense, it's late/early and the screens starting to blur, I'll edit any glaring problems when I'm a little more awake!

Now that is what I would call Brilliant! An excellent, informative and easy to follow how to. As for the finished article; Fantastic, that, for me would be the perfecr paddle, I like a long blade and short shaft, being er... challenged by gravity, shall we say. A remarkable job Saarlak. I have looked at making my own paddle for quite some time, the main thing stopping me is the lack of tools. Sandpaper I have, the rest, well that's why I tend to buy mine as when i've bought the spoke shave, saw and benches I could have probably bought a couple of decent paddles. I'm sure Nige will put this onto the main forum. Well done that man

Saarlak thats sure a great looking paddle.
Making my own paddles is something I ought to think about doing as I am quite hard on mine

What is the advantage with a northwoods grip?
Cheers
Tim

Very enjoyable, reading that you can tell you have a true passion for it, really nice deep water blade too, really like it. When are you going to start taking orders

Very inspiring blogg - I have the book mentioned, but haven't got around to having a go (yet). Graham Warren also wrote a small book 'Making Canoe Paddles in Wood' which you can get through his Moosehead web-site.

One thing that might be useful - a web-based wood-turning suppliers, Tool Post, sell a Woodturner's Abrasive Pack consisting of one metre of each of the ten grades: 60-80-100-120-150-180-220-240-280-320 in type RKJFO Aluminium Oxide Abrasive Cloth in 50mm/2" width (£10.95). Cut into 1ft lengths, and maybe split to 1" width, they would great for working on paddle shafts. 2" squares could be used on blades and handles.



Biff

(17-05-09 09:36 AM)Biff Wrote: [ -> ]Very inspiring blogg - I have the book mentioned, but haven't got around to having a go (yet). Graham Warren also wrote a small book 'Making Canoe Paddles in Wood' which you can get through his Moosehead web-site.



Biff

This is the earlier version of the one written with Gidmark. D. Both very good books to have tho'. The newer version has better photo's and illustrations.

We all work differently, but I'd recomend using a set of templates or better still email Graham at Moosehead and get a set of plans for around a £5.00.

What I'd like to really have a go at is making a Northwoods blade using just a n axe to carve with...

Nice paddle. Do you get any flutter from the slight ridge toward the upper part of the blade?

TGB

(17-05-09 10:01 AM)mattT Wrote: [ -> ]What I'd like to really have a go at is making a Northwoods blade using just an axe to carve with...

I remember Ray Goodwin doing that on a Ray Mears programme - spent all night and ended up with a spoon to stir his porridge.

And very good porridge-stirring spoon it was, too!



Biff

Thanks for the comments guys. I expected lots of questions on the process, but no, all on stuff I haven't mentioned, so I'll try to reply in order.

Las274, £10 for a cheap jigsaw from B&Q, £12 for a spokeshave from axminster, a £10 mora clipper and a bit of sandpaper would be enough tools to get started. This plank would have been the most expensive I've used at £20 (if I hadn't stolen it!), but like I say, any old cheap piece of wood will do, a friend made a paddle out of an old mantelpiece.

Tim, the northwoods grip has no advantage other than allowing you to try northwoods stroke, a variation on the knifed J involving a sideways grip on the top of the paddle and a bit of a well timed body dip.

Retro, it's not passion, it's an obsession, and I need help! As for orders, maybe in the winter, as my circumstances may be changing but I have enough deadlines in my life right now. I do have a plank of walnut waiting for inspiration if anyone has any ideas, is willing to pay to replace the plank and doesnt' mind waiting until I find the time, probably end up as a northwoods beavertail otherwise.

Biff, that's a damn good price, but I tend to just use whatever sandpaper is lying around. I have become fond of the green aluminium oxide paper I've been getting from B&Q, it's good enough to not need so many different grits, I once did all the sanding on a DD yoke with just 120 grit and it didn't take half as long as I was expecting.

Matt, axe and crook knife are on my "one day I'll give it a go" list, but powertools are so quick!

TGB, really good question, I was concerned myself, but no. If there's a slight wobble in the edge of the blade I get flutter, but the spine seems to make no difference. I've only tried it for maybe half an hour, so maybe I didn't spot it, but it can't have been that bad.

Now get out there people and start trying this yourself, I wanna see photos!

(18-05-09 11:31 AM)saarlak Wrote: [ -> ]I do have a plank of walnut waiting for inspiration if anyone has any ideas, is willing to pay to replace the plank and doesnt' mind waiting until I find the time, probably end up as a northwoods beavertail otherwise.

I wouldn't go for a Beavertail in Walnut. It's a softish wood that will damage easily - assuming you will use the paddle in a mixed environment. i would make either a classic Ottertail or a Voyageur style for use in deep water.

(18-05-09 11:31 AM)saarlak Wrote: [ -> ]Matt, axe and crook knife are on my "one day I'll give it a go" list, but powertools are so quick!

Oh, I know. I've made all my paddles using a Jig/Band Saw, Power Plane and Belt Sander with some finishing by hand. Made a small 32" Voyageur for my nephews 4th Birthday in under 4 hours from plank to paddle...

The walnut beavertail would just be getting used with the canoe club at Newburn and I have enough deeper water blades for them to use already, apart from the ramp and the odd tyre the only thing it'll bash will be the silty bottom so it should hold up ok.

When my Grey Owl Guide finally gives up the ghost I'll be making myself something out of ash for tripping with. I guess part of the reason I'm making different paddles is so I can figure out what I want.

Anyway, it'll get a good bit more oil over the next few weeks and months, but the paddle is pretty much done. So here are the photos.

That is just stunning. I love the grain of a nice piece of cherry. Put me down for one of those in cherry, whenever you're ready

still looks good.

Have you tried the wood place on the N side of the river off the Walker Road? or the one in Felling? Their www seem to suggest a good stock of timbers...

Why can't the mass manufactures make paddles like that I am with Lee that's stunning. If in the winter you do feel like making a few bob I am would like one identical to that in something nice and dark I just love thin bladed deep water paddles.
Brilliant

Let me know shaft lengths lads (bearing in mind that northwoods grip) and any modifications you'd like and I'll pop you on my winter project list and get round to it when I get the time and the wood (not sure the walnut I have is as dark as you'd like Retro, but I'll check it out at the weekend when I'm at my sisters woodstore). Unfortunately 6x5 day trips on the Tweed along with the rest of a busy looking season at work, the imminent arrival of my Neice and hopefully moving house sometime around the end of the season means I can't give any time promise.

Matt, I still haven't checked out Robert Duncan's in Felling, but that ash I got delivered a few years ago was really nice, might check them out next time I get a day off. My sister checked out Newcastle hardwoods (if that's the place you mean on the N side of the river) a while ago and said it was mostly carving blanks and small craft pieces rather than a full on timber merchant. She also thought it was a bit over priced.