10-06-10, 03:47 PM
To be honest I prefer the simple look without all the fuss of lacing, extra buoyancy etc. 
but as much of my paddling will be myself and my 3 year old son I've decided after much reading on here and other sites that extra flotation in the event of swamping 
is a good idea and have just fitted a pair of endless river blocks to my Prospector 16. I've photographed the fit out as I went along as it may be of use to other Newbies like myself.
![[Image: 4687677195_3392895c6c.jpg]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4687677195_3392895c6c.jpg)
1st off I bought a pair of blocks, enclosed in green Cordura to match my canoe and because everyone knows green is much faster.
. These cost me £80. 10m of 7mm braid on braid and a further 10m of 4mm braid as well as some B&Q 8mm clear piping brought the bill to about £90. . I put the canoe on chairs in the back street just to bring it to a better working hight.
![[Image: 4688328182_d730e6ecb9.jpg]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4061/4688328182_d730e6ecb9.jpg)
My 1st job was to measure for the bow/stern loop which needed to be a strong point for clipping a tow line/rescue line to if needed. I measured (repeatedly) 50mm down from the gunwhale cap and in 70mm from the stem as I reckoned that this would minimise the risk of pulling out. Whilst I had my drill handy and bouyed up by the fact I'd not ruined anything yet I marked and drilled holes 40mm down from the gunwhale, starting at 200mm from the stem and at 100mm centres for the lacing.
![[Image: 4687677205_41c22bfb88.jpg]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4055/4687677205_41c22bfb88.jpg)
I kept the bow loop of 7mm braid large enough to get 4 fingers through but not so big as to allow a hand to pass through as I'd read that this constituted a trapping hazard in an emergency. The rope was threaded through the 7mm holes I had drilled and simply knotted inside the hull.
![[Image: 4688328220_73a5c8f10f.jpg]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4043/4688328220_73a5c8f10f.jpg)
Once the scary drilling bit was sorted I started at the hole nearest amidships on the inside of the hull, threading the 7mm braid out then back in and through a length of the clear tubing which I'd cut at 140mm. (Heating the tube in boiling water makes this easy). This was repeated all the way up to the stem keeping the rope nice and tight. I'd worked out the number of holes to allow the last "stitch" to come from outside the hull, through the front block mount and then out the other side. Tensioning this rope pulled the block nicely into the tight end of the hull.
![[Image: 4687677211_bdbd374f57.jpg]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4687677211_bdbd374f57.jpg)
The lacing then continued back down the other side and was finished off with a simple stopper knot.
I then lashed the block into place with the 4mm line which is laced through the loops on the block as well as looping beneath to prevent the block pulling out if the boat were pinned. (I guess that if the were to pull out now then the boat would be the least of my worries . When I eventually start using the boat on white water
I'll add extra strapping to a D ring in the bottom.
![[Image: 4687677219_3d57dfeceb.jpg]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4062/4687677219_3d57dfeceb.jpg)
Well no real problems though there is a noticable increase in weight . At the end of the day whilst happy to paddle with Sam or solo without the blocks I'm a lot happier out on the water with James with them fitted, They don't look too bad either with a usefull little storage space beneath them as well as the mesh pockets.
![[Image: 4687677221_de81bb83e5.jpg]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4052/4687677221_de81bb83e5.jpg)
Hope this helps anyone thinking of having a go. £90 is a fair bit of money but for me the added security whilst away makes the price a little easier to swallow. Mike.
but as much of my paddling will be myself and my 3 year old son I've decided after much reading on here and other sites that extra flotation in the event of swamping is a good idea and have just fitted a pair of endless river blocks to my Prospector 16. I've photographed the fit out as I went along as it may be of use to other Newbies like myself.1st off I bought a pair of blocks, enclosed in green Cordura to match my canoe and because everyone knows green is much faster.
. These cost me £80. 10m of 7mm braid on braid and a further 10m of 4mm braid as well as some B&Q 8mm clear piping brought the bill to about £90. . I put the canoe on chairs in the back street just to bring it to a better working hight.My 1st job was to measure for the bow/stern loop which needed to be a strong point for clipping a tow line/rescue line to if needed. I measured (repeatedly) 50mm down from the gunwhale cap and in 70mm from the stem as I reckoned that this would minimise the risk of pulling out. Whilst I had my drill handy and bouyed up by the fact I'd not ruined anything yet I marked and drilled holes 40mm down from the gunwhale, starting at 200mm from the stem and at 100mm centres for the lacing.
I kept the bow loop of 7mm braid large enough to get 4 fingers through but not so big as to allow a hand to pass through as I'd read that this constituted a trapping hazard in an emergency. The rope was threaded through the 7mm holes I had drilled and simply knotted inside the hull.
Once the scary drilling bit was sorted I started at the hole nearest amidships on the inside of the hull, threading the 7mm braid out then back in and through a length of the clear tubing which I'd cut at 140mm. (Heating the tube in boiling water makes this easy). This was repeated all the way up to the stem keeping the rope nice and tight. I'd worked out the number of holes to allow the last "stitch" to come from outside the hull, through the front block mount and then out the other side. Tensioning this rope pulled the block nicely into the tight end of the hull.
The lacing then continued back down the other side and was finished off with a simple stopper knot.
I then lashed the block into place with the 4mm line which is laced through the loops on the block as well as looping beneath to prevent the block pulling out if the boat were pinned. (I guess that if the were to pull out now then the boat would be the least of my worries . When I eventually start using the boat on white water
I'll add extra strapping to a D ring in the bottom. Well no real problems though there is a noticable increase in weight . At the end of the day whilst happy to paddle with Sam or solo without the blocks I'm a lot happier out on the water with James with them fitted, They don't look too bad either with a usefull little storage space beneath them as well as the mesh pockets.
Hope this helps anyone thinking of having a go. £90 is a fair bit of money but for me the added security whilst away makes the price a little easier to swallow. Mike.
